Factory Tour: Crescent Down Works

A simple paper sign, faded from years of exposure to the sun, graces a second story window in the Capitol Hill neighborhood of Seattle. The small but delightful marker is the only indication that this building is home to Crescent Down Works, a long-time purveyor of quality custom-made down clothing.

Anne Michelson, who founded Crescent in 1974, had kindly agreed to welcome me on a tour of the company’s factory. Upon my arrival I was greeted by Michelle Clark, Anne’s friendly and obviously talented lieutenant, who provided me an overview of the company and its operations.

Michelle explained that Crescent’s products are entirely made-to-order according to each customers’ specifications for cut, color, and fabric type. The majority of Crescent’s customers are Japanese and European retailers, though U.S. consumers can purchase Crescent products through South Willard, the LA boutique.

Given the revival of interest in authentic American-made apparel, I was surprised to learn that Crescent doesn’t have specific plans to expand its presence in the US retail market. Michelle had a simple explanation for this: the company refuses to sacrifice product quality, and maintaining a smaller operation ensures that every Crescent garment stands up to exacting quality standards. This workmanlike approach and commitment to craftsmanship were visible in every person that I met at Crescent.

I asked Michelle if she would mind walking me through the process of creating a Crescent Down Works jacket — she obliged. Following is an account of my journey.

A Crescent jacket is born in the cutting room on the factory’s 2nd floor. The room (approx 500 sq ft) contains a large table stocked with several dozen large rolls of fabric. I was immediately taken by the range and variety of fabrics, from yellow nylon to brown herringbone wool. While the Crescent jackets that I’ve seen on the streets have been natural muted colors, the shelves at Crescent’s factories are lined with brightly-colored purples, reds, pinks, and blues. Apparently, many of Crescent’s foreign customers have an appreciation for these more dramatic color combinations.

In the cutting room, customer orders are written out on small note cards and affixed to a clipboard (above). A worker removes one of the cards, and cuts all the fabric required to fill the order. When the fabric is cut, the worker places all the pieces for the order into a bin which then goes to a shelf while it awaits attention from a sewer (below).

From here, one of the 15 or so expert sewers removes the bin and begins the several hours of sewing required to assemble a single garment. The sewing floor is compact but intelligently designed, and has the soothing rhythm of a place where work is getting done well.

When the shell of the jacket is assembled, it moves to the basement where it is filled with down. Crescent uses down from the Pacific Coast Feather Company, which is also located in Seattle.

Finally, the jackets are wrapped, boxed, and prepared for shipping (which occurs on the first day of each month) to customers all over the world.

I had the chance to handle and photograph a finished 60/40 Montagna Parka (available at South Willard). This garment clearly embodies the craftsmanship and pride that went into its making: leather reinforced buttons, high grade ripstop lining, leather toggles.

If you are looking for timeless, durable, and stylish outerwear, check out Crescent Down Works.

See more higher resolution photos from my tour at Picasa.

Tuesday, May 12th 2009 11:00am